French Tarte Faves (FTF) No. 5: New and improved lemon ricotta cake

When I started planning this one, I wasn’t thinking FAVE. But after all the work I did on it (and the delicious end result), I think it deserves to be one - BIG TIME! I’ll give you fair warning - lots of stuff coming up. Oh boy!!

I’ve never written a post specifically about this cake, but I have included images of it on and off in some of my update posts over the years. At my Pawtucket RI shop I would regularly make petite versions as part of various treat assortments. It certainly takes me back.

Of a different time

Recently while going through some old files, I discovered my spring 2014 issue of “Edible Rhody” in which the recipe was published. Whoa!

As a quick aside - Edible publications are focused on all things food-related from different locations around the USA. I always enjoyed the Rhody version when we lived there, and the whole Edible series is still alive with seasonal print editions, podcasts, online missives and various events here and there. Check out the Edible Community here.

The recipe from another time

I cannot tell you where/when I first conjured this one up (probably reading through an Italian baking book), but I CAN tell you that I thought it was delicious from the first bite. Aside from its lemony-ness, it offers a tender, almost creamy texture with a light airy-ness that’s hard to describe.

Back in the day

Fast forward to now! Recently I received a catalog from King Arthur Baking Company with a recipe for - you guessed it - lemon ricotta cake. The link takes you directly to their website for the base recipe for an 8” cake (it includes a 1.5 times recipe enough for three small bundt cakes (and of course they also have a set of three six inch mini Bundt pans for purchase if you’re of a mind.)

What struck me about the KA recipe is that, first of all, the ingredients are essentially the same as the recipe I’ve used over the years save for a few variations in portions - more flour and sugar and less butter - but otherwise identical in terms of what you need to have on hand to make it.

Second is the use of “00” flour, a popular Italian flour traditionally used for pizza and pasta dough. It’s more finely milled, ostensibly giving the cake a more tender texture. Third is the baking temperature - 400ºF (unlike the usual 350ish for many cakes).

I decided to do a side by side test comparing my recipe of old with the KABC one. I admit that there are times when I still prefer to write things out by hand - you’ll see below a quick comparison of ingredients for the two versions.

I won’t bore you with all the details (warning - more of that coming up), but I made a full recipe of each, dividing each batter between a 6” round cake pan and petite silicone flexi-molds.

My recipe baked with less rise (less flour, less rise) and a lovely browned edge, whereas the KABC recipe reached quite a height and depth of color.

The texture of mine came out dense, tender, moist and almost custardy with a nice lemon flavor.

The KABC version has what I would consider a more typical cake texture - larger crumb, a bit drier at first, but the moisture actually improved over a couple of days. Delicious lemon flavor too.

Both cakes benefit from the lovely lemon glaze that is brushed on after the bake.

Since Steve and I felt it best not to indulge in ALL of the end results, I sliced some of each version and added some berry mascarpone to one of them. Those goodies went to cousin Jen and her husband Scott.

Of course (me being me), I decided to create a new version starting with my “old” one as the base. I nearly doubled the flour, combining mostly “00” plus some almond flour, decreased the butter by just a tablespoon and the salt to 1/4 teaspoon, added vanilla and kept the other ingredients the same. The goal? Perhaps to come up with the best of both worlds. Here’s the PDF of the new version.

Feel free to gloss over the text below. I know I get carried away sometimes:-)). Remember, not only is this for all of you, it’s a great way for me to chronicle my adventures.

The mise

Planning ahead: (isn’t it wonderful to be organized?)

• 8” springform pan, butter bottom and line with parchment. Butter sides and sprinkle with coarse raw sugar for a nice hint of crunch to the edges (yum!). Remember - here’s the full recipe.

• 155 g / 11 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temp (cube up while still cold - it’s easier).

• One cup whole milk ricotta: I put a strainer nested on paper towel over a bowl then put the ricotta in the strainer to drain off some of the liquid. It can sit out while you’re getting everything else ready.

• In a medium bowl whisk together 130 g / 1 cup “00” (or all purpose) flour, 35 g / 1/3 cup blanched almond flour, 8 g / 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon salt and set aside.

• Three eggs have to be separated. Like the butter, it’s easier to do that when they’re cold. Since yolks shouldn’t sit out too long (they start to dry and shrivel), I usually do the separating soon before I start my batter process. Whites can sit out for awhile and actually whip up better when not so cold.

• Put 150 g / 3/4 cup granulated sugar in a medium bowl and zest the lemons into the sugar - rub the zest into the sugar to release the oils, enhancing the flavor.

• Have a tablespoon lemon juice and a teaspoon vanilla extract available.

• For glaze (after the bake): 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar; some raw sugar for sprinkling on top if desired.

The steps:

1. Heat oven to 375ºF.

2. With the paddle beat butter, sugar/zest at medium-high for 3-5 minutes until light and fluffy. Scrape down sides of bowl.

3. Add egg yolks one at a time, scraping down after each.

4. Blend in ricotta, lemon juice and vanilla.

5. Add dry ingredients and mix on low until blended.

6. In a clean bowl whisk the three egg whites to soft peaks, abut 2-3 minutes. Then blend into batter in three additions until incorporated.

7. Place batter into prepared pan and smooth top.

8. Bake 55-65 minutes, rotating pan 180º half way through. A tester inserted should come out clean. Look for a golden, nicely browned surface and a firm feeling when you lightly press on the cake in the center. If browning too quickly, tent with foil - remember every oven is different!

Pan prep

Ready to blend in whites

Final batter

Ready for the oven

All baked up

Place pan on a wire rack set into a half sheet pan and let cool about 15 minutes. Remove the outer ring, place another rack on top of the cake and flip it over onto the second rack. Remove the bottom pan and parchment then flip back over.

Make glaze by adding 2 tablespoons lemon juice to 3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar. Pour/brush gently over the top and let dribble down sides. Sprinkle raw sugar over surface. Place in the oven 4-5 minutes to set the glaze.

Oh so good!

Once cooled I topped with a light layer of whipped caramel mascarpone cream and a smattering of blueberries.

This. Cake. Is. Delicious. Wonderful texture, dense yet light in the crumb, lemony with a wonderful crunch from the raw sugar.

I gave half of it to our neighbor whose husband recently came home after a long hospitalization/rehab stint. Steve and I had no trouble enjoying what was left over the course of several days (it keeps very well in the fridge.)

Wait! I’m not finished yet! I had a request to bake some treats for cousin Mary’s book club gathering so, for the second round with the “new” recipe, I baked another batch as individual cakes (my fave). Baked in silicone molds, they don’t get quite as browned as batter baked in a metal pan but that’s OK. Baking time is less for the smaller cakes so keep an eye on things. The yield is around 30 cakes for the welled oval molds that I love.

Once cooled, I applied the glaze and sprinkle of raw sugar.

I made a lightly gelled berry coulis and filled the center wells with that. I had to set aside a couple for taste testing by - guess who?!

Then a nice swirl of mascarpone cream . . . . .

and a bit of color with fresh berries.

The timing of this project happened to be perfect for Memorial Day weekend too - I had plenty to share with visiting niece Rachel and her husband Steve as well as with the more extended family at Clear Lake.

THE END.

Summer is moving in so enjoy it!

Weigela varietal

Banana rye walnut chocolate chunk cakes

I learned something about bananas some years back. Once they’re ripe and you’re not ready to eat them right then and there, peel ’em, chunk them up and freeze them! You can then use them in smoothies, cakes or quick breads where they lend a special creaminess to the batter. Yum.

This recipe calls for 4 medium bananas which I figured came to about 480 g of banana mash (~120 g per banana). I’m sure you can give or take the amount without negatively affecting the final result so don’t fuss too much as to the exact quantity of said banana.

This is my take on banana rye bread from Brontë Aurell’s book “Brontë at Home - baking from the Scandi Kitchen”. I’ve made these babies a bunch of times and realized that I’ve never written about them. I’ve done variations subbing maple sugar (thanks sister Joyce!) for some of the brown sugar, subbing ground oats and/or whole wheat pastry flour for some of the all purpose flour, adding in chopped toasted nuts like hazelnuts or walnuts, adding chocolate chunks and topping with a nutty streusel. So moist. All good.

Here’s the recipe (including some of the variations I’ve made) and my mise for this version in the image below. It’s a pretty straight forward cake batter - mashed banana, yogurt, lemon juice and vanilla in a separate bowl; dry ingredients in another bowl; cream butter/sugar, add egg then add wet/dry alternating. Basic right?

In this case I’m also adding 170 g / 6 ounces chopped chocolate to the batter and topping with chopped walnuts and raw sugar for a bit of crunch.

You can bake these cakes in buttered/floured muffin tins but I prefer (and love) my Silikomart silicone flexi-molds - so many different shapes and sizes. This time I’m using the 8-well SF028, rather like a standard muffin size. The recipe yield is about 20 cakes using that particular mold. I also often use the 11-well SF022 which is a tad larger than a standard mini-muffin pan - I get about 33 cakes with that mold. NOTE - I have several of each mold.

I place the molds on a wire grid on a half sheet pan - that allows for better air circulation and more even baking.

You can find a large selection of Silikomart molds at bakedeco.com. By the way - I have no affiliate links with any companies - I simply like sharing the things I find useful and fun in the baking kitchen!

Heat the oven to 350ºF. Fill molds about 3/4 full. Sprinkle chopped walnuts and raw sugar on top.

Bake 20 minutes or so - always check about half way through. Your oven may take longer than mine. You want the center to feel set and just the barest hint of a moist crumb on a tester.

Let them rest about 10 minutes then gently turn them out onto a wire cooling rack. If you can’t wait, try one a bit warm when the chocolate will still be gooey, otherwise cool to room temp and enjoy.

These freeze well too. Even better!

Let me add my official Happy New Year to all of you. Time for new projects and, as always, staying active and keeping our collective chins up. OK.

Summer fruits galette/spelt pâte brisée

This time of year when the farmer’s markets are teeming with fresh fruits and produce, a rustic galette is just the ticket for a delicious summer dessert. Think cherries, peaches, plums, berries (red, blue and black), and currants too! Steve and I love our local Fulton Farmers Market and make at least a weekly visit for our favorite seasonal goods.

Even though our socializing has been curtailed and we’ve been at home for the majority of our time in the last five months, every now and then we get out to Clear Lake to see cousin Jen and her family. What a beautiful spot to enjoy an outdoor meal and of course each other’s company. We provided grilled chicken, fresh green beans and corn while Jen had some deelish nibbles, crusty rolls, followed by vanilla ice cream to accompany the fruit galette. Yum indeed. Thanks Jen, Scott and Claire!

In France a fruit galette (crostata in Italia) is a rustic tart - no tart pan or ring, just a rolled out round of dough topped with a mound of fresh fruit then baked to golden crust perfection. I’ve written about galettes before but it’s always fun to revisit an old friend.

Planning ahead, you can certainly make your dough days or even weeks before, wrap it well and freeze it until you need it. Think about that when, before you know it, the fall and winter holidays will be upon us. What better way to be prepared for the pies or tarts you hope to serve for Thanksgiving dinner or holiday suppers/gatherings than to have your dough already made. Yippee!

For this one I used my favorite pâte brisée recipe but substituted 60 g of spelt flour for 60 g of all purpose flour. What a buttery, flaky, edge-of-nuttiness and melt-in-your mouth dough this is!

I’m a big fan of Bob’s Red Mill specialty flours. While I use King Arthur flour for my all purpose, bread and general whole wheat needs, the wonderful array of BRM’s offerings available on my local grocery store shelves allows me easy access to some of my faves like whole wheat pastry flour (sadly hard to find during this pandemic!), spelt, and semolina, plus non-wheat options like rye, cornmeal, rice and oat flour, potato and tapioca starch just to name a few.

For this galette I used about 300 g of dough for a finished size of about 9 inches. On a lightly floured surface roll the dough into a rough ~ 12-inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Check out the butter marbled throughout and the speckling of spelt in the photo below - I love that.

Remember to work with your dough cool - if it becomes warm and the butter squishy, it’s time to pop it into the fridge or freezer for 10-15 minutes to firm things up. You’ll be happy you did. Once your dough is rolled out to your satisfaction, place it on a parchment lined sheet pan and hold it in the fridge while prepping your fruit.

Heat the oven to 425ºF.

I used a total of 5 cups of fruit including sliced peaches and yellow bubblegum plums, blue/red/blackberries tossed with about 1/3 cup sugar, 2 to 2.5 tablespoons flour, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and a pinch of salt. I follow that ASAP with assembly so my fruit mixture doesn’t get too juicy.

To provide a bit of anti-soggy protection to the crust I blend a tablespoon or so each of either all purpose or almond flour and sugar. Sprinkle that over the crust, leaving about a 2-inch border. Have at the ready a couple tablespoons unsalted, diced butter to dot on top of the fruit and some milk or cream and raw sugar for the edges.

Now mound that pile of fruit in the center, again leaving about a 2-inch border. Notice I’m doing my assembly ON the parchment lined sheet pan rather than my work counter so as to avoid having to lift the filled/shaped galette onto the sheet pan. Yup, it’s all in the details folks.

Pleat the dough up over the fruit and, once you’ve made it all the way around, cup your hands around the edges and give everything a firm squeeze to set your dough in place. Dot with butter, brush milk on the dough edges and sprinkle with raw sugar.

Pop the whole pan into the freezer for 10-15 minutes to firm up the butter and set the dough even more.

Bake on the bottom rack for 10 minutes, turn the oven down to 400ºF and give it another 10 minutes. Move the sheet pan up to the middle rack, decrease the oven temp to 375ºF and bake another 15 minutes, periodically checking for the degree of browning. You want to see the fruit bubbly and the edges golden brown. If needed, go another 5-10 minutes. All in all I usually plan on a total baking time of 40-45 minutes for this size galette. Remember - in your oven it may be a bit more or less.

Have fun creating your own mixture of fresh fruity goodness for a delicious summer fruits galette - you can do it. Absolutely!

Salty chocolate chunk shortbread

A big thanks to our Rhode Island friend Gigi for sending me the link to the NYT recipe from Alison Roman for these addictive buttery, crispy, chocolate chunky shortbread cookies. Right up my alley!

I did tweak the recipe a bit as I am wont to do, using dark instead of light brown sugar, reducing the total sugar a bit and subbing in some whole wheat pastry flour for a portion of the all purpose flour. I love the nutty, caramely-ness of the end result. Yummy.

While Alison’s process involves shaping the dough into two logs, chilling then rolling in demerara sugar and slicing, I opted to wrap my dough in discs, chill then roll out and cut with my favorite fluted round cutter. A sprinkling of flaked sea salt and raw sugar on top adds a wonderful crunchy component.

Here’s my version of the recipe:

Ingredients:
255 g salted butter, cool and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
80 g granulated sugar
50 g dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
250 g all purpose flour + 75 g whole wheat pastry flour
170 g semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped in chunks (I used a combo of Guittard 61% and 72%)
Raw sugar and flaky sea salt for sprinkling

1. Beat the butter and sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle on medium high for 3-5 minutes to lighten and fluff-en it up.

2. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, slowly add the flour followed by the chocolate and mix until blended.

3. Divide the dough into two or three portions, wrap in film wrap and chill about 2 hours. Note: hold the dough well wrapped in the fridge for up to a week or in the freezer for a couple of months.

4. Line sheet pans with parchment and heat oven to 350ºF.

5. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface and cut shapes of choice. Sprinkle tops with raw sugar and flaky sea salt. Continue to roll/cut scraps or wrap and freeze any leftover dough for later.

6. Put sheet pans in the freezer for 10-15 minutes before baking.

7. Bake until lightly browned, 12-15 minutes. Cool and enjoy!