French Tarte Faves (FTF) No. 5: New and improved lemon ricotta cake

When I started planning this one, I wasn’t thinking FAVE. But after all the work I did on it (and the delicious end result), I think it deserves to be one - BIG TIME! I’ll give you fair warning - lots of stuff coming up. Oh boy!!

I’ve never written a post specifically about this cake, but I have included images of it on and off in some of my update posts over the years. At my Pawtucket RI shop I would regularly make petite versions as part of various treat assortments. It certainly takes me back.

Of a different time

Recently while going through some old files, I discovered my spring 2014 issue of “Edible Rhody” in which the recipe was published. Whoa!

As a quick aside - Edible publications are focused on all things food-related from different locations around the USA. I always enjoyed the Rhody version when we lived there, and the whole Edible series is still alive with seasonal print editions, podcasts, online missives and various events here and there. Check out the Edible Community here.

The recipe from another time

I cannot tell you where/when I first conjured this one up (probably reading through an Italian baking book), but I CAN tell you that I thought it was delicious from the first bite. Aside from its lemony-ness, it offers a tender, almost creamy texture with a light airy-ness that’s hard to describe.

Back in the day

Fast forward to now! Recently I received a catalog from King Arthur Baking Company with a recipe for - you guessed it - lemon ricotta cake. The link takes you directly to their website for the base recipe for an 8” cake (it includes a 1.5 times recipe enough for three small bundt cakes (and of course they also have a set of three six inch mini Bundt pans for purchase if you’re of a mind.)

What struck me about the KA recipe is that, first of all, the ingredients are essentially the same as the recipe I’ve used over the years save for a few variations in portions - more flour and sugar and less butter - but otherwise identical in terms of what you need to have on hand to make it.

Second is the use of “00” flour, a popular Italian flour traditionally used for pizza and pasta dough. It’s more finely milled, ostensibly giving the cake a more tender texture. Third is the baking temperature - 400ºF (unlike the usual 350ish for many cakes).

I decided to do a side by side test comparing my recipe of old with the KABC one. I admit that there are times when I still prefer to write things out by hand - you’ll see below a quick comparison of ingredients for the two versions.

I won’t bore you with all the details (warning - more of that coming up), but I made a full recipe of each, dividing each batter between a 6” round cake pan and petite silicone flexi-molds.

My recipe baked with less rise (less flour, less rise) and a lovely browned edge, whereas the KABC recipe reached quite a height and depth of color.

The texture of mine came out dense, tender, moist and almost custardy with a nice lemon flavor.

The KABC version has what I would consider a more typical cake texture - larger crumb, a bit drier at first, but the moisture actually improved over a couple of days. Delicious lemon flavor too.

Both cakes benefit from the lovely lemon glaze that is brushed on after the bake.

Since Steve and I felt it best not to indulge in ALL of the end results, I sliced some of each version and added some berry mascarpone to one of them. Those goodies went to cousin Jen and her husband Scott.

Of course (me being me), I decided to create a new version starting with my “old” one as the base. I nearly doubled the flour, combining mostly “00” plus some almond flour, decreased the butter by just a tablespoon and the salt to 1/4 teaspoon, added vanilla and kept the other ingredients the same. The goal? Perhaps to come up with the best of both worlds. Here’s the PDF of the new version.

Feel free to gloss over the text below. I know I get carried away sometimes:-)). Remember, not only is this for all of you, it’s a great way for me to chronicle my adventures.

The mise

Planning ahead: (isn’t it wonderful to be organized?)

• 8” springform pan, butter bottom and line with parchment. Butter sides and sprinkle with coarse raw sugar for a nice hint of crunch to the edges (yum!). Remember - here’s the full recipe.

• 155 g / 11 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temp (cube up while still cold - it’s easier).

• One cup whole milk ricotta: I put a strainer nested on paper towel over a bowl then put the ricotta in the strainer to drain off some of the liquid. It can sit out while you’re getting everything else ready.

• In a medium bowl whisk together 130 g / 1 cup “00” (or all purpose) flour, 35 g / 1/3 cup blanched almond flour, 8 g / 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon salt and set aside.

• Three eggs have to be separated. Like the butter, it’s easier to do that when they’re cold. Since yolks shouldn’t sit out too long (they start to dry and shrivel), I usually do the separating soon before I start my batter process. Whites can sit out for awhile and actually whip up better when not so cold.

• Put 150 g / 3/4 cup granulated sugar in a medium bowl and zest the lemons into the sugar - rub the zest into the sugar to release the oils, enhancing the flavor.

• Have a tablespoon lemon juice and a teaspoon vanilla extract available.

• For glaze (after the bake): 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar; some raw sugar for sprinkling on top if desired.

The steps:

1. Heat oven to 375ºF.

2. With the paddle beat butter, sugar/zest at medium-high for 3-5 minutes until light and fluffy. Scrape down sides of bowl.

3. Add egg yolks one at a time, scraping down after each.

4. Blend in ricotta, lemon juice and vanilla.

5. Add dry ingredients and mix on low until blended.

6. In a clean bowl whisk the three egg whites to soft peaks, abut 2-3 minutes. Then blend into batter in three additions until incorporated.

7. Place batter into prepared pan and smooth top.

8. Bake 55-65 minutes, rotating pan 180º half way through. A tester inserted should come out clean. Look for a golden, nicely browned surface and a firm feeling when you lightly press on the cake in the center. If browning too quickly, tent with foil - remember every oven is different!

Pan prep

Ready to blend in whites

Final batter

Ready for the oven

All baked up

Place pan on a wire rack set into a half sheet pan and let cool about 15 minutes. Remove the outer ring, place another rack on top of the cake and flip it over onto the second rack. Remove the bottom pan and parchment then flip back over.

Make glaze by adding 2 tablespoons lemon juice to 3/4 cup confectioner’s sugar. Pour/brush gently over the top and let dribble down sides. Sprinkle raw sugar over surface. Place in the oven 4-5 minutes to set the glaze.

Oh so good!

Once cooled I topped with a light layer of whipped caramel mascarpone cream and a smattering of blueberries.

This. Cake. Is. Delicious. Wonderful texture, dense yet light in the crumb, lemony with a wonderful crunch from the raw sugar.

I gave half of it to our neighbor whose husband recently came home after a long hospitalization/rehab stint. Steve and I had no trouble enjoying what was left over the course of several days (it keeps very well in the fridge.)

Wait! I’m not finished yet! I had a request to bake some treats for cousin Mary’s book club gathering so, for the second round with the “new” recipe, I baked another batch as individual cakes (my fave). Baked in silicone molds, they don’t get quite as browned as batter baked in a metal pan but that’s OK. Baking time is less for the smaller cakes so keep an eye on things. The yield is around 30 cakes for the welled oval molds that I love.

Once cooled, I applied the glaze and sprinkle of raw sugar.

I made a lightly gelled berry coulis and filled the center wells with that. I had to set aside a couple for taste testing by - guess who?!

Then a nice swirl of mascarpone cream . . . . .

and a bit of color with fresh berries.

The timing of this project happened to be perfect for Memorial Day weekend too - I had plenty to share with visiting niece Rachel and her husband Steve as well as with the more extended family at Clear Lake.

THE END.

Summer is moving in so enjoy it!

Weigela varietal

Saint Angel tart

Along the lines of the tarte au fromage blanc that I made during the summer of 2018 as part of my baking with cheese series, this Claudia Fleming inspired tart is reminiscent of a soufflé, using a pastry cream base to which is added triple crème cheese and a lightly whipped meringue. Yum!

In preparation for this project I returned to our favorite cheese shop, The Cheese Lady, here in Grand Rapids. Steve and I never turn down an opportunity to drop by to chat, taste and buy (and they sell some great wines to boot). Love it!

After tasting a few triple crème options I went for Saint Angel, a creamy cow’s milk cheese from the D’Affinois group. It has a lovely, slightly nutty taste with just a hint of salt - perfect for a tart just like this one.

I used my favorite pâte sucrée d’amandes with the addition of ~ 60 g of toasted and coarsely chopped hazelnuts (following Claudia’s lead) for the crust. Below is the lined tart ring before blind baking.

By the way, the base dough recipe makes enough for two 9-inch tarts so I simply wrapped and froze the portion I didn’t use. Nothing wrong with that!

The tart shell can be blind baked at 325ºF and set aside for several hours before filling or even frozen a few days ahead to give your project a jump start before the day you wish to serve it.

With your blind baked shell at the ready, heat your oven to 350ºF.

For the filling I prepared a HALF recipe of my basic crème pâtissière using 3 large eggs, divided - yolks for the crème and whites placed into the bowl of a stand mixer and set aside. Once the crème has cooked and thickened, blend in 283 g/10 ounces Saint Angel cheese (rind removed and cut into pieces), then strain into a large bowl and set aside.

Using the whisk attachment, whip the 3 egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy then slowly shower in 150 g/3/4 cup granulated cane sugar. Once all of the sugar is added, whip on high speed until medium stiff peaks form.

Gently fold a third of the beaten whites into the triple crème mixture, then fold that mixture back into the remaining meringue in two additions.

Transfer the filling into the baked tart shell . . . .

and bake for 20-25 minutes until puffed and golden.

You can certainly plan to serve this soon after baking, yet knowing full well that it would collapse, I opted for letting it do just that, cool down and then give it a try.

Delicious, light, creamy, a hint of salt and a sublime taste treat indeed.

Thinking about accompaniments to a good triple crème cheese, I tried a dollop of cherry jam on top - not bad although Steve wasn’t a big fan. Otherwise toasted nuts, a drizzle of honey, roasted fruits/fruit compotes, berry sauces or coulis would be deelish too! Give it your own spin.

Good news! The tart held up well in the fridge (covered) for the next couple of days. Hurray!

Here’s to everyones health, safety and getting through the uncertainties in today’s world. Take care all of you.

Hazelnut flour and Easter dessert Part 2: final assembly and tasting

Now for the finale of the 2015 Easter dessert!

But first a BIG thanks to Dick and Dorothy for a delicious Easter meal at their home.  Although the day dawned sunny and breezy it developed into a cloudy and (dare I say it) snow flurried afternoon.  Hey!  It's supposed to be spring already.

Just try and imagine the crocuses and tulips waiting to poke through the snow.

peering out of the sunroom windows

the Easter table

In my previous post I described the preparation of the various components for this hazelnut dessert.  So let's move on to the assembly, made so easy by having everything completed ahead of time.

I ended up using only one of the two hazelnut cakes I had baked, not wanting the final dessert to be too high.  After a thaw I split it into two layers, one for the bottom and one for the top.

Now it's a simple matter of building the stack.



I removed the still frozen custard/coulis/crumble layer (on the right in the photo above) from the form with a hot knife, then placed it on top of the cake.

After a short rest in the fridge to allow the custard to thaw and soften a bit, I added the second frozen custard layer and gently settled it in place.

On goes the top cake layer,

followed by a garnish of lightly sweetened whipped ricotta cream, a sprinkling of crumble,

and a few berries.

c'est fini

Now how about a little berry coulis and fresh blackberries with your dessert Ma'am?

The servings smushed a bit during the portioning part, but it didn't do the taste any harm.  A lovely combo of moist cake, smooth custard, somewhat tart berry and a hint of crumble crunch.

It seemed a bit sweeter than I was expecting but not excessively so - and the group gave it a thumbs up!

Not bad at all.

Thanks again D & D!