My first afternoon tea menu
/le menu |
la table |
orange currant and lemon scones |
finger sandwiches |
sweet treats |
salted caramel, chocolate and lime ginger shortbread |
le menu |
la table |
orange currant and lemon scones |
finger sandwiches |
sweet treats |
salted caramel, chocolate and lime ginger shortbread |
not bad for "out of season" fruit |
just out of the oven |
love those layers! |
les ingredients |
yup - wet and dry |
finished kneading |
after the first rise |
after the second rise |
right out of the oven - smells great! |
looks just like a good roll should |
a medley of petite treats |
early primroses blooming in our little courtyard |
ready and waiting for guests |
les ingredients |
the liquid and dry ingredients |
after the mixer knead |
ready to rise |
filling's ready! |
et voila! C'est fini! |
les ingredients |
ready for the oven |
love that sparkly crunch! |
Mmmmm! |
getting ready |
after the oven |
oh my! |
phew! looks better already |
ready to start churning |
looking pretty good |
les ingredients |
ready for the oven |
just out of the oven |
As I mentioned in a recent post on fresh fruit tarts, I had a blind-baked pâte brisée shell in my freezer just waiting to be filled. I was thinking lemon.
Before the Christmas holidays I had purchased a bunch of Meyer lemons, regular lemons and limes to use as table decor as well as to have on hand for baking. Since I had way more fruit on hand than I would use up efficiently, I proceeded to zest it, freeze the zest, juice the whole lot and freeze the juice too. Always on the prowl for the perfect lemon tart, I tried to track down the recipe for Jacques Genin's famous tarte au citron. I found a couple of recipe versions online as well as a video of Jacques himself preparing said tarte. Unfortunately the video did NOT include the specific ingredient portions. Oh well.
Update! I subsequently got my hands on his book on lemon tarts compliments of a student who was in one of my classes at Sur La Table. It’s small, in French and includes many versions of citrus tart. It’s great! But alas very difficult to get one’s hands on in the USA.
While his tart is made with limes, I opted for a lemon-lime combo. I already had my blind-baked crust. NOTE: here’s a link to two of my favorite tartes au citron, including Genin’s version.
The lemon-lime filling is made with 3 large eggs, 170 grams sugar, 180 ml juice (half lemon, half lime for me), zest of 6 fruits (Meyer lemon, lemon and lime combo for me) and 200 grams butter.
Whisk the eggs and sugar in a saucepan, add the zest and juice and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until the mixture starts to thicken and is just short of boiling (I took it to ~83º C). You should start seeing fine little bubbles forming around the edges and steam starting to rise up.
Remove it from the heat and blend the butter in with an immersion blender until smooth and creamy.
Since my crust had been in the freezer, I took it out about 30 minutes ahead and warmed it in a 325ºF oven for about 5 minutes.
One approach to a lemon tart is to make the curd, chill it and then fill the blind baked shell with the already chilled curd. Then it goes back into the fridge for additional chilling. Another is to fill the shell with the warm curd, cover the surface with plastic wrap and put the whole thing in the fridge to chill. Even another is to fill the warm shell with the warm curd and put it in the oven at 300-325ºF for about 10 minutes to further "set " the filling.
That's what I did with this one.
before the oven
after the oven
Believe me - the number of ways to approach a lemon tart is as many as the number of lemon tart recipes you'll find out there. Yes, it's true. I've tried 'em all (almost).
Once the tart cooled to room temp, I popped it (covered) in the fridge overnight.
We taste tested it the following day as our luncheon dessert at cousin Jen Galloway's house in the woods. Oh how creamy, tart and lemony it was. And the pâte brisée crust was PERFECT with it.
Another winner!
talking the puff talk |
blind baked pâte brisée |
small version of blind baked 1-2-3 dough |
larger 1-2-3 version for the ordered tart |
getting ready for final assembly |
et voila! |
the taste tester tarts |
pâte brisée on left and 1-2-3 on right |
notice the doughy interior layers |
ready for an overnight soak |
les ingredients |
pressed into the tart mold and chilled for baking |
just out of the oven |
lettin' em cool |
ready for the oven |
c'est fini! |
always a treat |
what a difference! |
au naturale |
avec crème d'amandes et confiture |
croissant et pain au chocolat |
chausson aux pommes |
croissant aux amandes |
kouign-amann |
It's hard to believe that Christmas Day has come and gone. Especially with the no-snow-on-the-ground, warm weather we've been having here in west Michigan. The weeks leading up to Christmas always seem to fill up with various projects, activities and baking (of course!). And then it's over and time for a new year.
our holiday table
chocolate pot de crème for Christmas Eve supper
spiced, candied nuts as an accompaniment
The other day when Steve and I were checking out Kingma's butcher counter looking for flank steak, we were also perusing the many aisles of food products. There before my eyes was one of the largest selections of Bob's Red Mill flours that I have ever seen. The one that caught my eye was graham flour and got me in the mood to make my own graham crackers in preparation for a graham cracker crusted coconut cream tart for Christmas Day.
This graham flour is ground from "hearty dark northern, hard red spring wheat" and "contains all of the wheat berry's healthy and natural elements - the germ, endosperm and bran". It's good for you!
I first made my own graham crackers some years ago after paying closer attention to the ingredients on the boxes of "store bought" grahams. I like to keep my baked goods as preservative free as possible and making these crackers at home is really an easy proposition. So why not go for it?!
I think this recipe may have come from Elizabeth Falkner when she visited Johnson and Wales University in Providence a few years ago as a distinguished visiting chef. It's a keeper. I often write up recipes with gram weights and note things I might do differently the next time. I keep them in plastic page sleeves that I then stash in my many recipe notebooks.
Heat the oven to 350º F. Line two 1/2 sheet pans with parchment paper.
In a separate bowl whisk 180 g / 1.5 cups graham flour with 98 g / 3/4 cup all purpose flour and 3/4 teaspoon salt.
In a mixing bowl cream 56 g (2 oz) soft butter with 85 g / scant 1/2 cup sugar; add 1 large egg and mix until blended.
Stir in 84 g / 4 tablespoons honey, followed by 1/2 teaspoon baking soda that's been dissolved in 2 teaspoons of water.
Blend in the dry ingredients.
The dough should hold together and be manageable. If it's too sticky, add a bit more graham flour. It’s helpful to wrap and chill the dough for an hour or so (or overnight). It rolls a bit more easily when cold.
On a graham flour dusted surface roll the dough out to a thickness of about 2 mm. I work with about half the dough at a time. As you roll, just keep lightly dusting and lifting the dough with a bench scraper to keep it from sticking.
Since my plan for these grahams was to crush them for a graham cracker crust, I wasn't too fussy about how I cut and baked them. You can certainly cut nice looking squares and even score them with a fork to give the quintessential graham cracker look if you're serving them as a traditional cracker.
Bake at 350º about 15 minutes until nicely golden brown.
My graham cracker crust calls for 140 grams (5 oz) of graham crackers so I weighed out what I needed and coarsely broke up the remaining crackers to put in my freezer for the next time.
I crushed the crackers for the crust with the old zip-top bag/rolling pin technique which eliminates having to get out the food processor (or cleaning it afterwards). Love it!
This coconut cream tart recipe comes from the Baking Illustrated book by the editors of Cooks Illustrated magazine and calls for toasting unsweetened, shredded coconut for both the crust, the filling and the top garnish. I did that a bit ahead.
The above ingredients include the 140 grams crushed graham crackers, 2 tablespoons sugar, 70 grams (5 tablespoons) melted unsalted butter and 4 tablespoons of toasted coconut. Simply mix it all with a fork and press it firmly into a tart pan.
Bake the crust at 325º F for about 20 minutes until fragrant and browned.
While the crust cools go ahead and make the coconut cream filling.
The filling is prepared using a basic pastry cream method. Place the contents of one 14 oz can of coconut milk in a sauce pan, along with 240 ml (one cup) of whole milk, 35 grams of toasted coconut, 75 grams sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Heat this to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile place 5 egg yolks in a separate bowl, whisk in 75 grams sugar and 28 grams cornstarch.
Gradually pour half of the hot milk mixture over the yolk mixture, whisking constantly, then return all to the sauce pan and cook, still whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and bubbles.
Take it off the heat and whisk in 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract and 28 grams (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter.
Pour the cream directly into the baked crust, cover the surface with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours until chilled.
Whip up a cup of heavy cream with a splash of vanilla extract and a tablespoon or two of powdered sugar and spread it over the coconut cream filling. I love to use my offset spatula to create a simple design.
Then sprinkle some toasted coconut on the top . . . .
and voila, you're ready to go!
Now it's time to take a breath, relax a bit and look ahead to a new year.
citrus browned butter cream tart |
lining the tart ring |
all lined and ready for blind baking |
baked and cooling - just waiting for the pastry cream |
les ingredients |
ready to fold and fill |
all filled up |
all assembled and ready to transport |
It's gently snowing at the moment and quite lovely. We had our first real snowfall over the weekend, about 3 inches or so - really not much, but seeing that first snowy ground cover is always kind of exciting. What might this winter bring, we ask?
still a few leaves on the burning bushes
looking north
For some time now I've been using a tea shortbread recipe that I received some years ago at a Women Chefs and Restauranteurs conference in Washington DC. The presenter of one of the seminars on uses of tea in baking and cooking was Chef Laurie Bell of Great Falls Tea Garden. She had cookie samples to share with us, having chosen a fennel chai tea as that day's particular flavor. So yummy.
I just checked out their website and the business is still going strong. Great stuff for you tea lovers.
http://greatfallsteagarden.com/
Here in GR one can find many varieties and flavors of tea at Schuil Coffee Company. I paid them a visit to pick up some Earl Grey jasmine tea and, in the process, found a Mayan chocolate tea (the staff described it as “peppery”) that sounded like just the ticket for a delicious shortbread cookie.
As you can see above in my much used copy, the recipe includes ground almonds and finely ground tea of choice. Feel free to change up the nut choice to marry with whatever tea you’ve decided to include - lots of options here!
les ingredients
In the bowl above I have 57 gm almond flour (you can grind your own toasted, sliced or slivered almonds easily enough), 130 gm all purpose flour, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 75 gm sugar. In the forefront is my 10 gm of ground Earl Grey jasmine tea which will go in with the dry ingredients. Then I simply dice my butter, sand it into the dry mix until it comes together. Wrap and chill.
For the Mayan tea I opted to make two batches - one using the above recipe, obviously replacing the Earl Grey with the Mayan chocolate tea, and one substituting pistachios for almonds and adding cocoa powder to the mix. After all, when I hear "Mayan chocolate", I see a chocolate cookie in my mind's eye. Among other things, the Mayan tea contains cardamom pods, cocoa and ginger pieces and black pepper - all good with chocolate if you ask me.
Oh! FYI - for the pistachio chocolate version I cut the flour back to 110 gm and added 24 gm of cocoa powder to the dry ingredients.
Once the doughs were completed, wrapped and chilled, I prepared for baking.
I love the many different cutter shapes available, and I chose three different ones to help me keep track of which cookie was which.
ready for the oven
These bake at 325 convection for about 20-25 minutes - remember to pay attention to what's going on in that oven of yours!
just out of the oven
Et voila!
getting into the holiday spirit
Bien sûr Steve and I had to do a little taste testing. The Earl Grey jasmine was delightful with a subtle floral hint compared to the more classic Earl Grey with bergamot with which most of us are familiar. And I'm normally not much of a floral flavor fan (how's that for alliteration?)
While the straight Mayan chocolate tea version was smooth and tasty with a nice peppery aftertaste, the pistachio cocoa version was a tad dry, most likely due to the added cocoa powder (but delicious nonetheless). Next go around I'll back down the cocoa powder a bit to 15 gm and up the flour to 120 gm. And I'm considering a skosh more butter for that version as well. The choice of pistachios is great for this flavor profile.
As I anticipate the upcoming December holidays and preparing gift boxes of shortbread, I'm working on a special tea assortment. I have a couple more flavor ideas bopping around in my head and hope to have the final assortment chosen soon. Can't wait!
And Happy Thanksgiving to all from snowy Michigan.
It's already November and the holidays are creeping up on us - watch out!!
Lately I've been busy in the kitchen testing out some Italian cookie recipes for holiday gift boxes for a local café. Brutti ma buoni (ugly but good), a ground nut (hazelnut version here) meringue cookie . . . .
Ricciarelli - a classic Senese almond cookie . . . . .
Biscotti doppio cioccolato - double chocolate biscotti . . . .
of course I had to dip some in chocolate!
and semolina shortbread (sorry - no pic!). They all turned out pretty darn tasty!
In the meantime I'm cranking out my own petite shortbread for some sample give away boxes. I love to hand out goodies for folks to try.
Eight flavors of goodness
Recently I made a batch of reverse puff pastry to have on hand for whatever might come along. And, being apple season, there's nothing like the combo of buttery puff and lightly sautéed, caramelized apples. Yum, yum. Here are some chausson aux pommes I made a couple of weeks ago.
Last week I visited Aquinas College's Browne Center to speak to the ladies there about getting on their "lifelong learning" adult education schedule to teach some pastry classes. Yeah!
I never like to arrive empty handed so an assortment of treats was in order. In a slightly different take on a chausson I rolled out some puff, cut hexagons, brushed with milk and sprinkled with sugar . . .
and baked them.
puffed and sparkly
I make an indentation in the top of the baked puff, top them with a scoop of the above mentioned apples, drizzle some caramel on and bake them again just to warm the apples through. So delicious.
I included these apple feuilletée along with matcha-berry financier and some gateau Breton aux amandes et confiture in the goodie box for the Browne center crew.
A brief postscript to the above: I wrote about gateau Breton in my last post, but this time I topped the dough with either apricot or four fruits jam, a ring of almond cream and some sliced almonds before baking. What buttery, nutty goodness.
all baked and ready to eat
Lots of fun and much more to do before New Year's Day hits!
Stay tuned.
offers a sweet taste of France
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Susan VandenBerg, pastry chef, Grand Rapids, Michigan
EMAIL: frenchtarte52@gmail.com
PHONE: 774.280.4803
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