Paris - the name says it all. Many of us have been put under it’s spell. We often ask ourselves “what is it about this place?” The answer often eludes us, but we know how we feel when we’re there.

When we travel, we like to think of it as BEING in a place. It’s not a vacation but an adventure in learning and experiencing what that place has to offer. How does day to day living compare to what we’re used to at home? Appreciating the social fabric, how the locals spend their time, eat, work, relax, and relate to each other. That’s what Paris has become for us - it draws us back. Sure it has issues as all places do - homelessness, strife, inequality, citizens wanting change - but there’s a feeling that’s indescribable.

If nothing else, it’s a feast for the eyes and the soul. From histoire to les musées to les monuments to les fleurs, les jardins and les marchés to les arts en general; to the food, les bistros et brasseries, les pâtisseries et boulangeries; to exploring and finally to the simple act of being flaneurs - strolling down previously undiscovered streets, stopping at a café for a coffee or a glass of wine and some people watching.

I’m writing this after our return to Grand Rapids. It’s good to be back home in a familiar space and the regularity of day to day life.

Steve and I had an interesting reaction as we arrived in Paris this time. We knew, of course, that we were only going to be there for three full days, but, after many nights in hotels, eating out all the time (other than our short stay with friends Richard and Pauline), not having much room in our hotel lodgings to feel like we could relax, sit, enjoy - the minute we arrived at the AirBnB we had rented, we felt like we were home.

Paris at this time of year brings beautiful fresh fraises which we took advantage of for our breakfasts in the apartment - yogurt, fresh berries, fresh brewed coffee, toast with delicious French beurre et fromage, le jus d’orange. So good.

**Seasonal fruit - *les fraises sont arrivées*!**

Believe it or not, we didn’t enter even one pâtisserie or boulangerie this time around. We certainly enjoyed some window viewing (lèche-vitrine) with so many tasty looking goodies on display, but our primary indulgence came on our first afternoon out and about.

We decided to treat ourselves to a favorite spot on Place Des Vosges. Carette is an elegant cafè that has been around a long time, serving brunch/lunch, afternoon tea/coffee, hot chocolate, pastries, cakes and more. Outdoor seating is available under the portico but we opted to sit inside.

I ordered le fraisier, the classic sponge/mousseline/strawberry layered number that’s so popular during spring. It’s one of the recipes I learned/made during the basic pastry course at Le Cordon Bleu oh those many years ago.

Steve, being a sucker for anything made with choux paste, chose a classic èclair au chocolat. Our coffees were accompanied by a tasty shortbread cookie - right up my alley!

Not feeling at all rushed to do/see things on this short visit, we enjoyed leisurely mornings and spending afternoons with old (and new!) friends.

We happened to be in Paris over the May Day (1 May - Labor Day)) holiday when many are out enjoying a day off, hanging out in street-side cafés et bistros, handing out bouquets of muguet des bois (lily of the valley) or strolling in the cemeteries. Demonstrations and marches are also de riguer with the focus on workers rights.

Back in 2006 during my pastry schooling days, Steve spent a lot of time in Paris’ cemeteries, photographing and blogging about his discoveries. Marie, a native French teacher-of-English living and working in Paris, contacted him through his blog and they became die hard buddies through their mutual interest and fascination of all things cemetery (particularly Parisian ones!). We met up with Marie at Pére Lachaise, enjoying lunch at a nearby café followed by wandering the avenues et chemins past so much sculpture, history, greenery and flowers - spring had sprung!

**Strolling in Pére Lachaise - photo courtesy of Steve Soper**

The following day we had an agenda. First (after some morning relaxation) - a visit to my favorite store carrying a vast array of baking and pastry needs - Mora. I had a few things in mind such as piping tips and silicone molds that would be easy to pack. Mission accomplished!

**Ready to shop! Photo courtesy of Steve Soper**

We then sidled over to nearby Detou, another foodie shopping destination full of ingredients the likes of chocolates, nuts, flours, dried fruits, pastes, vanilla and SO much more. And all at much better prices than we might find at home. We did succumb to purchasing a bag of toasted Marcona almonds and one of cashews “for the road”. I would have liked an extra small suitcase to fill with almond and pistachio flours, whole raw pistachios and hazelnuts, Valrhona chocolates and on and on. . . . .

We lost track of time and had to hurry over via metro and by foot to meet up with Jill, that new friend I mentioned earlier. For a bit of back story - some time ago I came upon a blog entitled “Paris Breakfasts” written by American watercolorist Carol Gillott. Through her blog I learned about Jill Colonna, author of the blog “Mad About Macarons” (as well as the book of the same name) and the book “Teatime in Paris”. I subscribed to Jill’s monthly newsletter, enjoying her recipes and her take on what’s going on in Paris, both seasonally and in general.

Jill is Scottish, married to a Corsican Frenchman, living in Paris and very connected to the food world in general. We had emailed a bit back and forth and by luck we were able to find a window of time that we might meet in person. We met in the Marais at Mariage Frères for pots of Earl Grey tea and lively conversation. Cool.

Our next stop - Les Antiquaires, a bistro just down the street from Musée d’Orsay where we had 6 pm timed tickets to see the currently running Impressionist exhibition. Again by luck, we found a time window to meet up with friend Val from my LCB pastry school days. Val was my classmate during the basic pastry part of the program and was my savior in the translation department. Having lived and worked in Las Vegas for 5 years some time ago, she speaks English like an American. Thanks Val!

And so our Paris time came to an end. Flights home went smoothly and we’re working our way back into some sort of daily rhythm. My walks offer such calm. I leave you with some favorites along the walking path.

Happy baking! Until next time.

Paris. One word that conveys so much. For those of you who’ve been, this image of rooftops, chimneys, trees and beautiful evening light will speak to you. While not necessarily what most people think about when they hear that one word, the feeling I get from this image is one of calm, contentment and feeling at home.

Odd isn’t it? Steve and I lived here for 9 months during my Le Cordon Bleu pastry schooling and have been back a number of times over the years. Our last trip was 4 years ago, our return this time much longer than anticipated thanks not only to COVID but to life events in general. Things are always changing aren’t they.

Rows of plane trees in Le *Jardin des Plantes*

During those months, we lived in an apartment on rue Poliveau in the 5th arr, just down the street from Le Jardin des Plantes, the city’s primary botanical gardens. I took regular walks through the Jardin and along the Seine, always anticipating the vision of Notre Dame in front of me as I passed under the Pont de la Tournelle. Now undergoing restoration after the devastating April, 2019 fire, it is a much different image than the one that would always take my breath away a little bit every time it came into view. There’s something about it.